Before we get into the nitty gritty, first, a little background. “Blackheads go by the medical term ‘open comedones,’ says Dr. Alicia Zalka, Connecticut-based dermatologist and founder of Surface Deep. "They represent a tiny skin opening (pore) which is plugged at the surface of what is called the pilosebaceous unit. This plug made up of sebum (oil) and dirt, has an open top so you can 'look into it which' makes it appear black.” And, unfortunately, they are just are a little more visible on some of us than others. “The appearance of blackheads varies based on many things including age, skin care regimen, hormone status and heredity," notes Dr. Zalka. "There are only some aspects of these variables that we can control. People with very obvious blackheads are usually teenagers but even the elderly can suffer from them.”
Exfoliating with baking soda: “Exfoliating is one of the only variables we do have control of when it comes to minimizing the appearance of blackheads," notes Dr. Zalka. You can use cleansers, brushes and sponges to gently scrub away plugged pores, but chances are you already have a key element in your fridge. “Baking soda is an ingredient that is often used in microdermabrasion which as a method of exfoliating, can aid in minimizing blackheads when done regularly.” Mixed with water, baking soda can be used to create a gentle scrubbing paste. Alternatively, you can use apple cider vinegar instead of water, which has astringent and anti-bacterial properties and will similarly clear out pores.
Clay Masks: “I occasionally recommend facial masks for patients to use for deep cleaning that can in some circumstances help clean out pores, leaving them smoother looking," says Dr. Zalka. "Like with microdermabrasion, it needs to be done on a regular basis for best results.” Dr. Jennifer MacGregor of Union Square Laser Dermatology, echoes that, saying "abrasive pastes, powders and clay masks (with kaolin) gently exfoliate and help absorb existing oil, but it will accumulate again shortly after the product is used."
Pore Strips: Whether store-bought or homemade, "pore strips can provide immediate improvement of some types of plugged pores but the blackheads will recur unless a proper skin care regime is followed routinely as a preventative measure,” notes Dr. Zalka.
Salicylic and Glycolic Acid: "The best way to break down oil in clogged pores is by using beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic) or combination peels containing salicylic acid," says Dr. MacGregor. "It is lipophilic (attracted to fat/oils) and concentrates at the surface of the pore to dissolve the plugs. Consistent use will prevent the blackheads before they form and help clear existing pores." Additionally, glycolic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid which is derived from sugar cane, helps clear dead skin and debris on the surface. These two work well in tandem.
Retinoids: The viamin A derivative is "the absolute best way to clear clogged pores and prevent blackheads from forming," says Dr. MacGregor. "Prescription-strength formulations are the most effective, but there are several highly effective over-the-counter retinol formulations. These work on receptors in the skin to improve the way skin grows and sheds so that it is less likely to form acne. The outer skin layer (epidermis) evens out and gets thicker while the outer dead layer of keratin material sheds more efficiently. Sometimes there is noticeable peeling but after regular use three to seven times weekly for four to six weeks, the side effects lessen and the skin appears more radiant and clear.
Microdermasbrasion: This professional method "can help a great deal," say Dr. Zalka. "Your dermatologist can also provide chemical peel treatments and comedone extractions which are office-based procedures known to help improve skin texture and appearance.”
What NOT to do: It may take everything in your power, but "the worst approach is to squeeze blackheads," says Dr. Zalka. "This can make skin inflamed, infected and even cause scarring. Be careful not to use any sharp tools on the skin. Leave that to the professionals!”
Check out blackhead-fighting products in the gallery below, and share your tips in the comments.
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